满满当当的行脚
本帖最后由 米豆豆 于 2022-7-23 09:18 编辑2022.7.13，我们一家去吉安县敖城镇泸富村看望岳父岳母，岳父前列腺肥大，前几天很不舒服，经过治疗，好了一点。二哥也从广州回家看望，所以也和一年不见的二哥一家相见，和乐融融。13日下午出发去五金，路上顺带游了一下吉安县浬田镇田岸上村，这个村是中国传统村落，面积不大，建筑设计倒是规整清爽，周边是低平丘陵和田园，满眼绿色，精华部分在前两排，前排有一座圣旨敕建的节孝坊，后面一排并列的房子设计精美，马头墙的庐陵风格，马头顶部又不突出，好像特意削平了一般，这个在吉安一带很少见，吉安地区大部分马头墙是菱角分明特意突出的，有美观和煊赫之意。
又夹杂赣北风格，屋门头呈八字形内凹，房子方正像印章，又类似金溪县附近的青石印章样式房，很新颖奇特耐看，守约山房里面的木构雕饰非常美观，让人惊叹，在我看过的庐陵建筑中不多见。第一和第二排房子之间是两眼大池塘，应该是防火和风水安排，池塘后面那一排是宗祠为主的建筑，南山公祠最为高大气派，特别是主祠，门楼内敛又张扬，精致新奇，在吉安一带也很罕见，具体见图。红军曾经在村子里驻扎过，墙上还保留着大量宣传标语，或者清楚或者模糊，是该村的一大特色，当然，从纯美观的角度来说这种涂鸦有损传统古建筑的美感，今天却是红色文化的遗产。总之很值得一看一游。
第二天我们两家带上四弟的两个女儿准备去泰和的蜀口洲生态岛游玩，自驾前去，50公里左右，没多久就到了，在游客中心买好门票和游览观光车票，坐着车围绕蜀口岛一圈。中间在大樟树那边休息游玩了一个小时左右，环岛路中间的行车道隔离带是彩色的很漂亮，周围的景色也很迷人，车行咕咕，清风呼呼，小朋友们惊叫不断。
蜀口洲被誉为千里赣江第一岛，也不是浪得虚名，植被丰富，郁郁葱葱，政府投入资金较大，作为4A景区精心打造，人造景观较多，最明显的是那几个竹木条编织构造的大鸟巢形民宿，挺新奇吸引眼球的，据说住一晚要几百逾千，妈呀赶上五星级酒店了，老百姓消费的起吗？那棵樟树王真的高大，枝繁叶茂，霸地遮天，牛气的很。我们一顿猛拍，孩子们东奔西跑，爬树尖叫，开心快乐，累了渴了就在树下面吃吉安特产——冰冻凉粉，油黑爽滑的凉粉加入白糖米醋，几口下肚，透心凉，Q酸爽，任督畅，暑气立消。
没多久就到中午了，二哥说他的同学邀请我们去泰和市区吃饭，盛情难却，不多久就见到他久违的老同学了，选在一家像院子又像饭店的酒店里进餐，叫赖家院子什么的，环境不错，厨艺又好，大快朵颐。交谈中得知二哥和他感情浓厚，缘分深深，莫逆之交，无话不谈的样子，只是造化不同，一个在广州行医，一个在泰和经营养老医院，都事业有成。吃完长谈后就话别了。我建议去参观有名的快阁，一伙人有冒着中午的酷暑来快阁了。
阁楼似乎不在市中心又属于市区，旁边就是泰和中学。泰和不大不小，较为分散，城市在扩大，经济在发展，不少新建楼盘，县级城市还有天虹商场也是不错的。快阁就在主干道旁边转弯处，远远的就看见了。楼阁建在较高的台基上，左右分两个石阶而上，三层石木混合结构，大概三十多米，不太高，在一片空阔地中也显得很高大有气势。
台阶正面就是黄庭坚写的《登快阁》诗，黄主政过泰和，和他的前任们把泰和治理的很不错，政通人和，官民同乐，不愧“泰和”之名，还有文天祥，杨万里，杨士奇，李梦阳查士行等一群大儒名士都造访过快阁，衔觞赋诗，文采飞扬，韵味十足，所以成了一座文化楼，江南名楼。我也不揣粗鄙，献上小阙一首。
丑奴儿.登泰和快阁
驱车百里寻奇楼，丹阁柱天，丹阁柱天，回廊迎风话庭坚。
携幼直趋最高处，澄江环练，澄江环练，朱檐掠过双飞燕。
很久以前我就知道杨士奇是泰和人，也知道他的陵墓也在泰和，但没想到离泰和县城这么近，我在高德地图上看只有10公里左右，遂决定去瞻仰一下了却心愿。他老人家也是个穷教书先生哦，油然而生亲切感。杨是个低调的人，虽然是三朝元老，内阁首辅，一人之下万人之上，但似乎老成持重，低调内敛，不事张扬。
但是也没想到现在的泰和人也是极其淡化他的存在，一路上没有宣传牌，也没有指路牌，没有地图导航的话，很难找到，地图最后都不准，靠我自己找到的，在一座烈士陵园里面，很好奇，怎么会这样安排，他应该是历史文化名人，达官贵人，而不是烈士，当然，他的墓在烈士陵园旁边，在一片荒丘之中，虽然新修整过，还是野草丛生，荆棘满地，几乎掩盖墓道墓圹，要不是围墙华表，残缺的石兽翁仲，模糊的墓碑等物件的存在，根本看不出它是一位左右大明王朝的宰相级的大官人的坟墓，怎么说也是一个实干家，台阁体文学家，实权派人物啊，怎么怠慢到这般地步？
也许是他不肖的儿子玷污了他的清名吧，也许是无子嗣接续家族事业的原因吧。真是“伤心秦汉经行处，宫阙万间都做了土”“世人都说神仙好，惟有功名忘不了，古今将相在何方？荒冢一堆草没了。”低首回味，心有戚戚焉。过好此生足矣，来生不奢求不切望，但我也不过于悲观，担当身前事，何计身后评，但留些清名，启迪后来人。正如今天，我慕名而来，敬其刻苦好学，改天逆命，勤政爱民，文著等身，跨越时空，祭拜杨公先贤。
接着游览了吉安市区附近的神岗山，匆匆爬了望阁（很快要下班闭园了)，气势不错，厚重高耸，登楼四顾，青原山苍靛如墙，横亘东西偏北而上，西南是日益扩大的吉安市区，高楼大桥都清晰可见，俯瞰东南是宽阔清澈的赣江，从永新曲折而来的是美丽清秀的禾水，在楼下不远处汇入赣江，双江合流，沙滩绿洲相随，很是好看。
最后，看天色未暗，又想去附近找找曾经在抖音上看到的樟山石屋塔，塔在石屋村旁边的小山上，山体杂乱，野生植物数目众多，不辩路径，所幸有一架铁制山梯缘山而上直达塔边，鼓励女儿一起登上去，虽然荆棘狰芒很多，受了皮肤划伤刺痒之苦，但看到砖塔的那一刻还是很开心的，塔身七层，救人一命胜造七级浮屠之意吧，周长十余米，塔高26米，砖石结构，有石门进塔，塔内有沿塔壁垒砌的二尺左右宽的砖头阶梯到三层，塔墙上还有残存的木构建，可能是稳定塔体，助人攀登之用，我试着爬上去，台阶太窄，只到二层就放弃了，有椭圆形窗户瞭望，基本上都是树木杂草遮挡。
再从塔底往上看，塔身逐层收分，层层叠叠旋转而上，只到梅花状的塔顶，很是古朴好看，再出塔外，白石灰粉墙，略显粗糙，我喜欢，记得福州定光寺里面的白塔就又白又光亮，我到不是很喜欢,没有这种原始野性美。塔体七层六面密檐叠涩结构，简单质朴，清爽耐看，可惜经过近五百年的时光的洗磨（建于万历二十年，1592年，善人郭氏所建)，石屋塔已经老旧开裂剥损，很多藤蔓缠体生长破坏了砖塔结构，却也增添了几分野趣野景。
塔周遍布野草树丛，高过人头，所以看不到下边的浩渺赣江（以前应该是绝佳的风水观景台），下去才能看见。塔下前方几百米就有一个古渡口，风景很好。赣江宽阔，野渡舟横，缆绳悠长，随意南北；赣水如镜，水天一色，白云顾盼，鹭鹬留影，微风扬波，凉水漾脚，小鱼戏趾，清凉舒爽。宝塔聚气兮，幸福安康。赣水汤汤兮，庐陵郡望，鱼米之乡兮，子孙兴旺。 戌时已到，天色已晚，我们带着一河星月，沿着新修的赣江大道，开开心心地回家了。
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{:强:}快哉！山谷快乐阁 楼主好文采，看来我还是要多读书https://app.maidi.me/public/emotion/face_wulian.png 圆脸牛魔王 发表于 2022-07-22 13:10
楼主好文采，看来我还是要多读书
朋友过奖，一起学习https://app.maidi.me/public/emotion/face_043.pnghttps://app.maidi.me/public/emotion/face_073.png oyh1077 发表于 2022-07-22 13:07
快哉！山谷快乐阁
https://app.maidi.me/public/emotion/face_001.png 文采飞扬https://app.maidi.me/public/emotion/face_068.png值得一读的好帖，请问前列县是哪个地方 游记，跟着你的文笔旅游了一趟 猴王下山 发表于 2022-07-22 13:44
文采飞扬值得一读的好帖，请问前列县是哪个地方
不敢当，分别是吉安县浬田镇田岸上村，泰和县蜀口洲，快阁和杨士奇墓，吉州区神岗山，吉州区樟山镇石屋村https://app.maidi.me/public/emotion/face_076.png 呼吸空气的鱼 发表于 2022-07-22 13:51
游记，跟着你的文笔旅游了一趟
https://app.maidi.me/public/emotion/face_076.pnghttps://app.maidi.me/public/emotion/face_076.png 文采斐然，野兴悠长！